Next to the ruins of an old Byzantine monastery and along the shores of the Sea of Marmara: Horseback riding in Turkey involves spending the night outdoors around a campfire in a truly traditional way.
The campfire is already lit, and the kettle is smoking in the embers. In a large clearing, horses graze peacefully under the watchful eye of a dog. They gently wave their tails to chase away flies.
It’s not far from a romantic cowboy scene. But this scene isn’t set in the American Wild West, but on Turkey’s unspoiled Kapidag Peninsula. It’s about a two-hour ferry ride from Istanbul. Here, mats and cushions are spread out so riders can stretch their legs before the next ride.
From history: Attacks on monks
As the only operator on the peninsula, Cem Malatacik has been organizing hiking tours for tourists for 18 years. He built a ranch in a high valley surrounded by mixed deciduous forests, and he also serves as a forester in the area. Streams fed by fresh spring water flow through the valley. At the edge of the clearing where the ranch is built are the ruins of an old Byzantine monastery. From here, the ride begins on the “Tyrants’ Paths,” where bandits once robbed monks.
The trail leads over hills and valleys to the shores of the Sea of Marmara. This slow, unpretentious way of traveling allows you to experience nature in a unique way – you soon feel as if you are one with the horse. Riders spend around six hours a day in the saddle, and their primary mode of transport is walking. Fitness is still required, although trail riding is not a high-performance sport.
Horses with sure feet and strong character
Overnight stays are spent outdoors or in tents. Many hikers carry all their gear in saddlebags or bring a pack horse. Malatacik has his helpers carry the gear to the next camp. He says that too much luggage is not a good idea on the difficult sections through overgrown trails. Furthermore, bags easily slip off while galloping. However, this transportation is probably also a sign of the tourists’ need for convenience.
“My guests have to feel comfortable in the saddle. After all, we’re going through the countryside,” says Malatacik. “But otherwise we had a very diverse group of people here. I even had a blind person with me whose horse was being led.” The youngest guest was a nine-year-old girl. Everyone has their place in the group. The horses are sure-footed, robust, and have strong nerves. They are taken on tours as foals so that they can get used to the demands of trail riding and people.
Eagles circle the sky, packs of wild boar roam the nearby forests, jackals disappear around bends, and tortoises crawl on the ground. Bears are not found in the region, but wolves can be found. “Horses are often the first to sense wolves. They notice them faster than dogs,” says Malatacik. “I’ve seen wolves come very close at night. I shined a flashlight into the darkness and suddenly saw 30 eyes flashing.”
Cover photo: Horseback riding Turkey , CC BY-SA 4.0 , via Wikimedia Commons
